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AAZ upgrade quick guide.
1.6TD (JX) to 1.9TD (AAZ)
Strip AAZ to bare engine, head and block, good time to replace cambelt and tensioner and check crank pulley and crank for wear.[see note]
Fit JX sump and oil pick up pipe without windage tray [see note]
Use AAZ injection pump, modify throttle linkage.
Use T3 Diesel (CS,KY, JX) throttle cable.
Small hole in engine lid, probably about 15cm's by 10cm's and about 15mm increase in height.
Use JX exhaust manifold.[see note]
Use JX exhaust.
Use AAZ turbo, change attitude to suit JX exhaust manifold.( you can use JX turbo if required)[see note]
Manufacture oil feed pipe for turbo.
Oil feed pipe for turbo on 1.6TD "JX" engines.
Can be used on AAZ conversions that use 1.6TD exhaust manifold and turbo set ups, the threaded adapter from a 1.6TD must be used in the oil filter housing.
The brake vacuum pump rotated to give clearance and a slight tweak to the pipe to allow it to fit without rubbing on anything.
Use JX exhaust and mounts.
Use T3 Diesel clutch.[see note]
Fit spigot shaft bearing to crank (Part of Brickwerks kit)
Fit block bung to back of cylinder block (Part of Brickwerks kit)
Fit "Cut to length" Oil return line from turbo to sump (Part of Brickwerks kit)only for KKK turbo's, not Garrett)
Use JX airbox and piping to turbo, relocate airbox to behind LH light.
Use JX water housings for cylinder head.
Use AAZ waterpump to head rubber hose as the JX one isn't long enough, block the spare end.
Use AAZ inlet manifold, JX and AAZ ports are different shapes, if you match port the JX manifold to suit the AAZ head then in my opinion you aren't left with sufficient material to create a good seal.
Use which ever alternator/belt set up suits you, they are interchangeable.
Use (KY,CS,JX) Dipstick [see note]
1.6 D (CS) 1.7D (KY) to 1.9TD (AAZ)
As above but you will need to buy a complete 1.6TD (JX exhaust)
You will need a 1.6TD (JX) sump.
You will need a 1.6TD (JX) exhaust manifold.
You will need a 1.6TD (JX) airbox and piping.
Petrol to Diesel.
Pitfalls outweigh benefits, all bolt together but unless you have a engine bay to strip everything from it won't be a nice job, I have seen far too many done my Sunday Morning man, really really badly. some by so called professionals and some done by those that should know better.
You will also need engine bay wiring loom and a Diesel instrument cluster.
Buy a LPG gas conversion, it will be cheaper and easier.
Notes.
Using the original AAZ exhaust manifold and turbo in it's AAZ orientation results in oil not being able to drain from the turbo, engine will run on it's own oil and self destruct, A lesson I have learned from the mistakes of plenty of others.
Using the AAZ turbo and exhaust manifold will mean you have to make an exhaust to suit, any smaller diameter of the exhaust pipe will result in high EGT, therefore a shorter engine life and less performance.
Once done, fit new oil filter, fill engine up with 4.5l of oil and run, once run then re-mark dipstick to new level. If you don't the level maybe too high, the engine may smoke or run on it's own sump oil, and possibly self destruct.
215mm clutch will be fine for standard AAZ in a T3, if you start tuning, then it won't be strong enough and you will have to find an alternative method. The clutch from any of the T3 Deisels will do, they are the same.
Don't use the windage tray. It increases the width of the gasket as it were, then when you try to get the bottom bolts from bellhousing to sump they won't line up.
Leaving the sump loose while fitting the engine, I don't see how that would work as the sump is still that little bit further away from the engine.
If you insist on fitting it then you will have to modify it to fit the pick up pipe, then increase the diameter of the holes in the bellhousing that the mounting bolts pass through.
If you don't then I should imagine that it will crack the sump when tightening and putting unnecesary stress onto the sump.
The AAZ has problems, big problems, when buying an engine it is essential that you check that there is no movement between the crank pulley and the crank. The design of the pulley assembly was such that after a period of time the bolt would work loose, the pulley would move on the crank and damage the pulley and the crank. If the crank is damaged then it is scrap, and if the crank is scrap then generally the rest of the engine is too as repairing or replacing the crank is not a cheap, or easy job. VW realised there was a problem and modified the pulley bolt to stop this hapenning but there are some unmodified ones out there so beware.
There are 4 different injection pumps fitted to the AAZ, some have EGR, some have NoX reducing measures also.
Doing the conversion with the info above will result in haveing 2 non genuine parts, the oil feed (Which some people just bend a 1.6D one into place ) and the oil return line from the turbo (JX one is too short)
If you do it any other way you will have to make an exhaust, and if it breaks you won't be able to just buy one over the counter. Using as many parts from VW means when something breaks you can buy said part and not have to mess around bodging.
If you are going from 1.6TD because you don't have enough power, then fix the JX first, chances are you don't like it because it's not been maintained properly, a properly maintained JX is a good engine with more than enough power for most people. Remember tappets are manual and not hydraulic and rarely get set, once checked they generally have very little gap, hence not seating properly, low compression - low power, valves get hot as they are not closing enough to transfer the heat away from them to the head so worst case is burnt valves, not good.
A AAZ is only 5bhp up on a JX, but it does have slightly more torque.
Use this info at your risk.
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